Recipe from Laurie Colwin
Adapted by The New York Times
- Total Time
- 1 hour 10 minutes
- Rating
- 5(352)
- Notes
- Read community notes
This recipe is from the celebrated food writer Laurie Colwin, and in some ways it is quintessentially hers. There’s the delicious richness of the dish, its unfussiness and nostalgic value. There is the constant awareness of the plight of the busy home cook, those who would just as soon use a package of frozen spinach if the results are just as good as if you washed and chopped an untold number of bunches of fresh spinach yourself. And there is a twist: the jalapeños, which are a preventative measure against the gloppy blandness of steakhouse creamed spinach, adding sharpness to the dish but not too much heat. You can use either fresh or pickled jalapeños here — the latter add nice zing — and panko bread crumbs are a good substitution for fresh if you don’t have them (or a few pieces of stale bread) in the pantry. (The New York Times) —The New York Times
Featured in: Laurie Colwin: A Confidante in the Kitchen
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Ingredients
Yield:8 servings
- 210-ounce packages whole-leaf frozen spinach (do not thaw)
- 4tablespoons butter, additional for buttering pan
- 2tablespoons all-purpose flour
- 2tablespoons chopped onion
- 1clove garlic, minced
- ½cup evaporated milk
- Black pepper
- ¾teaspoon celery salt
- 6ounces Monterey Jack cheese, cut into cubes
- 1pickled or fresh jalapeño pepper, chopped, or more to taste
- ½cup soft buttered bread crumbs (see note)
Ingredient Substitution Guide
Nutritional analysis per serving (8 servings)
205 calories; 14 grams fat; 9 grams saturated fat; 0 grams trans fat; 4 grams monounsaturated fat; 1 gram polyunsaturated fat; 11 grams carbohydrates; 2 grams dietary fiber; 3 grams sugars; 10 grams protein; 251 milligrams sodium
Note: The information shown is Edamam’s estimate based on available ingredients and preparation. It should not be considered a substitute for a professional nutritionist’s advice.
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Step
1
Heat oven to 300 degrees. Meanwhile, cook spinach according to package directions. Drain, reserving 1 cup of liquid, and chop finely.
Step
2
Butter a shallow 8-inch-square casserole dish or other shallow 4- to 6-cup baking dish. Melt remaining 4 tablespoons butter in a saucepan and add flour. Blend and cook 2 to 3 minutes. Do not brown. Add onion and garlic.
Step
3
Add the spinach liquid slowly, then add evaporated milk, some black pepper, celery salt and cheese. Mix well and add jalapeño and spinach. Cook until all is blended.
Step
4
Turn into the casserole dish, top with buttered bread crumbs and bake until lightly browned, about 45 minutes.
Tip
- To make buttered bread crumbs, combine ½ cup fresh soft bread crumbs with 1 to 2 tablespoons melted better and toss well.
Ratings
5
out of 5
352
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Cooking Notes
Chris Amidon
I adored Laurie Colwin and was devastated by her untimely demise. I was so pleased to see Jeff Gordinier write about her, and even more pleased and that he posted these wonderful recipes of hers. She was one of a kind--warm, funny, generous, and her stories about food are my favorites.
Memphis girl
I only used 1 tbs butter, added more garlic, and two jalapeños. Fantastic winter dish!
Megan NYC
More than 30 years ago, Laurie Colwin’s creamed spinach recipe was printed. I bought all the ingredients and promptly lost the recipe.I looked Laurie Colwin up in the phone book and explained my predicament. She said she would tell me the recipe if I bought her cookbook. I made the creamed spinach and have been making it every Thanksgiving since. I bought her cookbook and sent her the receipt with a thank you note. She sent me a lovely postcard, which I still have. What a special lady.
Clare
Use Monterey Pepper Jack cheese instead of plain it also helps to grate the cheese it incorporates better into the sauce. It's spicy so you can skip the jalapeno pepper.
WiscoCooks
I've made this many many many times with the following variations... I saute the onion and fresh jalapeño pepper in the butter, then add garlic, stir, and add the flour. Continue as recipe is written... instead of plain monterey jack, I use a good local pepper jack to amp up the heat. Also, I usually don't have celery salt around, and in that case add real celery with the onion and jalapeño and add a pinch or two of kosher salt.
dee from New Orleans
This is a recipe I have used for years, out of The River Road Cookbook compiled by theJunior League of BatonRouge,La. an all time favorite of many a Southern cook. The NYT recipe is very close. It is rich, spicy and a definite brunch or even dinner addition.I do add the Worcestershire sauce as called for in the River Road recipe.You can play around with the garlic and spices to suit your own taste.
WiscoCooks
This would be the recipe that she famously said would make us "sit up and beg like a dog." And she was right. Soooo good!
dee from New Orleans
This is very much like the South Louisiana recipe in the River Road Cookbook called, “spinach Madeline “ a perennial favorite. I add the Worcestershire sauce as called for in the River Road cookbook. Delicious and rich.
CoolBeans
I have been making this for 20 years. It is a wonderful accompaniment to Thanksgiving turkey. I always increase the heat, sometimes with a spoonful or two of Mrs. Renfro's green chile sauce, and skip the buttered bread crumbs so that the dish is beautifully green. So nice to savor creamed spinach that has an unexpected kick.
Kimba
No need to add any cheese: just a few stray sprinkles on the top mixed with the breadcrumbs.
Cran
I, too, have been making this dish for decades. I have always subbed pepper jack cheese for the regular jack and omitted the jalapeño. The proof that it is a winner? It is almost impossible to not use a piece of crusty bread to wipe the last remnants from your plate.
Dede Bacro
Can't wait to make this again for Thanksgiving! Last year, we found our voracious dachshund, Don Carlo, standing on the table slurping down half of the bowl. Needless to say, we still ate what was left, and it was delicious!
Jessie
I used some banana pepper pickle juice and lots of fresh with a little frozen spinach. Before it went into the oven I was super wowed by the taste. Coming out I wasn’t as impressed. Might use the broiler after baking in the enameled cast iron for 10 min to brown the bread crumbs (I used panko) next time.
La Toque de Cindy
From a cooking camp, collective review:
-kids don't like it very much
-too much spinach
-flavorless
-not a lot of product with work done
-not enough pepper which goes with flavor problem
-"dead"
-the jack cheese wasn't the most flavorful
jen
I've never liked creamed spinach before, but this... oh my goodness - so good! It's creamy without being too rich. The jalapeno makes it. And this can be easily halved when only serving 2, with half of it left over to be reheated, perhaps topped with an egg for a perfect lunch. This is a winner.
Lisa Cannon
Apprehensive of the evaporated milk but went with it- This is great!!
Rachael
Monterey jack came in an 8 oz package, so it all went in. Used fresh jalapeño, so added a dash of rice vinegar and sugar. Plain panko instead of breadcrumbs. I'll probably add a hint of nutmeg and paprika next time, but very very good and reheated well.
Hudson Valley mama
Better than any creamed spinach I’ve had in a restaurant! I also cut down on the cream as recommended, and left off the breadcrumbs to make it GF. My frozen spinach did not render any liquid (microwaved) so I added a high quality veg stock instead. It was a hit at Thanksgiving! Now in the regular rotation.
Gmamie
Since spinach is showing up at my farmers market, any thoughts of using it instead of the frozen spinach?
L. P. Bishop
I was introduced to this dish over 50 years ago at my Chi Omega sorority house on the LSU campus. Our wonderful cook, Ms. Lillian, would announce that "Madeleine is coming to dinner" and no one dared miss dinner for this dish, known in the Deep South as Spinach Madeleine. Originally made with processed jalapeno-flavored Kraft cheese, per the River Roads Cookbook, I've adapted it to a slightly more healthy version as Ms. Colwin demonstrates. Always a requested classic for my holiday table.
Jessie
I used some banana pepper pickle juice and lots of fresh with a little frozen spinach. Before it went into the oven I was super wowed by the taste. Coming out I wasn’t as impressed. Might use the broiler after baking in the enameled cast iron for 10 min to brown the bread crumbs (I used panko) next time.
Laura
This has become a Thanksgiving staple at our home! Leftovers are equally delicious.
epmolander
This spinach dish is wonderful. I substituted pepper jack for the Monterey Jack, and sautéed fresh jalapeños with the onion before adding the flour. Also mixed a tablespoon of Vermont cheese powder into pinko crumbs for the topping. Delicious and memorable, like Colwin’s writing.
epmolander
Delicious. Used fresh jalapeno, sauteed with onion before adding the flour. Also used Jalapeno Jack.
Alexandra
This recipe is extremely versatile. It’s the best creamed spinach recipe I’ve ever tried. I have been making it for years. You can also turn it into a spinach dip…just increase the white sauce amounts by about 1/3 (or 1/2) if you like it less “spinachy”. Also, if you go the dip route I would recommend steering away from from using reserved spinach liquid and replacing with chicken stock or veggie stock.
SaratogaTB
Just made this for the second time and WOW! The shallow dish guidance is important. Added some of the cheese to top ten minutes before taking it out of oven.
verdigris
I just learned that this is an adaptation of a 1959 recipe called Spinach Madeline!https://food52.com/recipes/74218-spinach-madeline
Ashley
Loved the heat from the pickled jalapeños. Sauce was a little too thick, so thinned it with a little jalapeño juice for extra tang. Next time I think I will sub light cream cheese for half the regular cheese for even more tang. Buttery panko topping was delicious.
Megan NYC
More than 30 years ago, Laurie Colwin’s creamed spinach recipe was printed. I bought all the ingredients and promptly lost the recipe.I looked Laurie Colwin up in the phone book and explained my predicament. She said she would tell me the recipe if I bought her cookbook. I made the creamed spinach and have been making it every Thanksgiving since. I bought her cookbook and sent her the receipt with a thank you note. She sent me a lovely postcard, which I still have. What a special lady.
Julie
I love this story!! How cool!!
lanw
This is a good side to smoked and grilled meats. Served this alongside our smoked thanksgiving turkey and cooked on our kamado Grill after the Turkey came off. Used Panko breadcrumbs - the crunch makes the dish!
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